Mix the warm water, yeast and sugar in a small bowl. Let sit for 3 to 5 minutes, until frothy.

Whisk the bread flour, whole wheat flour, brown sugar, cocoa powder and salt in a large mixing bowl. Add the yeast mixture, canola oil, honey and molasses.

Mix with a dough hook on medium-low speed for 5 minutes, or knead by hand for 10 to 12 minutes. If the dough is too sticky or is not coming together, add up to 1/4 cup more bread flour, 1 tablespoon at a time. When done, the dough should not stick to your hands.

Form the dough lightly into a ball and spray around and under it with nonstick cooking spray. Let it rise in a warm place for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, until doubled.

Line a baking sheet or French bread pan with parchment and sprinkle it with the cornmeal. Punch down the dough and divide it into four equal pieces. Roll each into a rectangle, roll it tightly into a log, then gently press, pinch and tuck the ends closed. The logs should be about 8 to 9 inches long.

Set the loaves at least a couple of inches apart on the prepared pan. Score each loaf 3 to 4 times with a sharp knife. Brush with warm water, sprinkle with oats, cover loosely and let rise for another 30 to 40 minutes, until almost doubled.

Preheat the oven to 350°F with racks in the middle and bottom positions. Put a spare baking sheet on the bottom rack.

Uncover the loaves and place their pan on the middle rack. Put 4 to 5 ice cubes on the spare baking sheet and close the oven door immediately. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes.

Serve with butter.